Exploring Hamamatsu City: Where Music and the Sea Meet - Japanspecialist

Exploring Hamamatsu City: Where Music and the Sea Meet

03 Mar 2024
“We’ll be making a brief stop at: Hamamatsu,” the bullet train announces as you make your way from Osaka to Tokyo – preparing to ignore yet another insignificant city being passed up. Still, what’s this that catches your previously unaltered gaze? A harmonica-shaped skyscraper? A station plastered with painted piano keys? A distant twinkle of the sun hitting the sea? A billboard for... sand dunes? Lakes? Castles? Sea turtles?! What is this place that’s managed to stay completely off your radar?

Sea turtle making its way to the sea, Hamamatsu, Japan

Photo: Richard Henry

Hamamatsu is a city that is too often left out of a tourist’s itinerary. Between its metropolitan neighbour Nagoya and Mt. Fuji hubs Shizuoka City and Fuji City, Hamamatsu is a castle town chronically kept out of brochures. However, as more people visit Shizuoka prefecture’s largest city, the more is heard about the classical music centre of Japan and its relationship to natural conservation and the arts. Let’s roll out of the red carpet for one of our favourite lesser-discussed destinations.

Act tower Hamamatsu, Japan

The Music

It’s difficult to ignore the way music has impacted Hamamatsu. The streets are named after musical genres, the buses play Chopin at traffic lights, even playable pianos and guitars are on display at the bullet train exit. Why is Hamamatsu seemingly so much more musical than anywhere else in the country?

Yamaha drum set from the Yamaha museum

Photo: Richard Henry

Pride, we could say. Hamamatsu is proud of its relationship with its sister city Warsaw which is the hometown of iconic classical composer Frédéric Chopin. A replica of Warsaw’s famous Chopin statue is also on display near the base of Hamamatsu’s lofty Act Tower - the city’s only skyscraper built in the shape of a harmonica to further exemplify Hamamatsu’s pride in its musical roots.

Act Towers’ lower floors, Act City, consist of shopping areas, a hotel, and a performance hall where many world-renowned musicians have performed. It’s not uncommon to catch jazz giant and Tokyo 2020 Olympics opening ceremony performer Hiromi Uehara performing here as it’s her hometown.

 from the front lobby of the Yamaha factory

Photo: Richard Henry

With even all of that aside, Hamamatsu is the home of several musical instrument factories and is the main base and founding city of global powerhouse Yamaha. Indeed, the company began nearly 150 years ago in Hamamatsu City making organs and flourished into the success it’s become today. The main factory even has a showroom that can be both toured and touched via an online reservation. From Yamaha’s humble beginnings to now, its history can be played and perused in this display centre. It’s a must-do for music lovers of all ages.

Another one that’s also hands-on is the city’s Museum of Musical Instruments that exhibits hundreds of traditional instruments from all over the world and even provides a corner for a chance to hit a few. Diving deep into the city’s musical representation seems like a day trip all on its own, eh?

Bentenjima red torii gate, Hamamatsu, Japan

The Sea

Ah, the sea. Thankfully, Japan is surrounded by this beauty, and Hamamatsu is an excellent place to admire the emerald waves – particularly from the Nakatajima Sand Dunes.

Similar to the giant dunes that have given Tottori City some attention, Hamamatsu’s wide beaches are also accompanied by tall, trekkable dunes that offer breezes and scenery from the top and are a joy to run down. While the dunes provide a good deal of joy for all ages, they play an even bigger role in providing a safe haven for a delicate summer-nesting sea creature – the loggerhead sea turtle.

saying goodbye to a baby sea turtle

Photo: Richard Henry

Each summer, loggerhead sea turtles use Hamamatsu’s beaches as a nesting site. Since the dunes provide protection from inland threats and block out a good deal of city light pollution that might otherwise confuse turtle mothers and their coming offspring, these beaches have remained an ideal area for coming turtles. Conservation efforts continue to gain traction as the importance of awareness becomes apparent. The conservation centre, the Sanctuary Nature Centre, has even gone as far as providing a means of getting the public directly involved by allow participants to release new-born hatchlings into the ocean by hand. Eek!

Releasing a baby sea turtle by hand

Photo: Richard Henry

Annually, in August and September, participants that have signed up online can pay a small fee at the centre to go through a brief handling tutorial at the beach and, following the presentation, can release baby turtles as a team. Each participant is handed a wiggling baby turtle from a styrofoam container of which they’re gathered from their local protected nesting sites. At once, the turtles are released as participants observe their beautiful beginnings knowing that they have assisted in their road towards continuing the species. It’s pure joy to say the least.

The Lake

down the biking train around Lake Hamana

Photo: Richard Henry

Locally adored, Lake Hamana sits just to the west of the southern area of Hamamatsu City and borders Aichi prefecture. While a limitless amount of aquatic entertainment is available, the cycling trails around the lake make for a serene experience.

Hamamatsu Flower Park in spring, Hamamatsu, Japan

Although it would be a bit ambitious to casually bike it all, some of the most interesting spots around the lake that can be reached by bus or taxi include the Hamamatsu Flower Park – famous for its botanical gardens, fountain shows, and for being an ideal place to see cherry blossoms, wisteria, and fall foliage.

the Betenjima torii gate lit from summer fireworks

Photo: Richard Henry

Likewise, the point in which the lake enters the sea possesses an Itsukushima-esque floating torii gate that’s a popular spot for photos and summer fireworks. This area, Bentenjima, is a lovely part of the city to explore where small island freshwater coast meets mainland sea beaches. Bicycle rentals are available for traversing the district as well as crossing the bridges to the popular lakeside Nagisaen Camping area and the particularly lovely Hamanako Garden Park.

The Castle

cherry blossoms around Hamamatsu Castle

Finally, a stop into Hamamatsu Castle and its adjacent garden park is a must.

Just behind Hamamatsu City Hall, Hamamatsu Castle is an Edo-era reconstruction that sits atop a lush hill in central downtown. The castle itself possesses an inner museum that details its past leaders and its significance to Tokugawa Ieyasu as his former residence. The top floor of his little keep is a prime spot for taking in a sunset view of the central city.

 Hamamatsu Castle from afar, Japan

Around the castle is Hamamatsu Castle Park. In it, a garden with a koi pond and waterfall blooms all year round with every essential national tree and flower for delightful scenes in every season. The peach, plum, and cherry blossoms of spring are ideal here, but the park is never not worth a stroll.

Should I Stop By?

the allure of Hamamatsu gyoza

Absolutely. In fact, go the extra step and take your time in all that the western tip of Shizuoka prefecture has to offer. Try the local delicacies like unagi (eel) and Hamamatsu gyoza. Admire the city from the top of Act Tower. Immerse yourself in the warmth of the locals in their cozy seaside city that sits comfortably between two of Japan’s largest metropolitan areas. You might just find yourself marking a few more previously considered dispensable stops worth visiting on your map. Seeing what typically only the locals see is a great way to dive deep into this faraway land.

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