Atami: Izu’s Seaside Gateway of Beaches and Hot Springs

Photo: Richard Henry

While Tokyo is a city that sleeps (or naps, rather) as the trains shut down from late night until the early morning, the recovery time is never enough. As exciting and convenient as the capital is, it can also be overwhelming and potentially confining at times.

Thankfully, there’s always a train out of the city. Once you make it past Yokohama, Saitama, or Chiba, it’s small town central for a great distance. Fresh air, nature, and wide-open spaces. Really!

One of these getaway destinations also happens to be a shinkansen (bullet train) stop.

Atami is a mountainside hot spring town in eastern Shizuoka Prefecture that sits just on the Kanagawa border. It’s also a delightful beach town of which there are very few in the Tokyo area (far more ports than sand, you see). Thus, the views of the seaside from the cascading cliffside onsen (hot spring) hotels has and will continue to attract local and international tourists alike. If you’re looking for a scenic escape from Tokyo, let us tell you why you should choose Atami.

Photo: Richard Henry

Mountain Beach Scenes

Atami Station is the shinkansen station just after Odawara in western Kanagawa prefecture, and it’s the station that must be traversed to access the rest of the eastern coast of Izu peninsula via the Ito JR line and eventually, down the coast, the Izu Kyuko line – leading to the popular turquoise waters surrounding the Shimoda beaches.

From Atami, a great deal of the coasts of Izu can be appreciated. Gigantic green cliffs can be observed being beaten by the ocean below. Kilometers of sea rocks and bamboo adorned hills make up most of Izu’s coast, and the views keep people coming back.

Thankfully, in Atami, you can get the allure of Izu without having to travel the entire peninsula.

Photo: Richard Henry

A few skips down the hills from the station, palm tree lined beaches containing weekend warriors, friends tossing frisbees, and young families testing Sagami Bay’s temperature are the focus of the bayside. Sun Beach makes up most of this – a sandy green space adjacent to onsen hotels and cafes that resembles a postcard of a piece of southern California but without the population.

From the Top of a Castle

The rest of the waterfront is comprised of walking and resting areas that accompany sailboat docks and leads to a ropeway that carries passengers up to Atami Castle – a reconstruction that provides exceptional panoramic views of the bay and its rocky coast. The only island in view is Hatsushima – a tiny island only big enough for a harbour and a hot spring hotel, the Grand XIV Private Resort, with unparalleled 360-degree ocean views, which makes for a fine means of peaceful isolation.

The castle is a mountain ornament from the beach, and it’s an equal treat from the top. Either from its neighbouring courtyard or the upper decks, the endless undulating white caps of the bay are grandiose to the eye. Both the Izu coast and the harbour beach scene below are worth sitting with and burning into memory. The “wow!” factor is fervent here.

Less of a museum than many other reconstructions (as hinted at by the lower-floor arcade), Atami Castle acts as an ideal way to take in the natural scenery from the balcony of a samurai stronghold and collect some souvenirs along the way.

Soaking in Hot Spring Heaven

As if the local natural attractions weren’t reason enough to visit Atami, tourists are encouraged to stay a little longer by taking a dip in a local hot spring with water supplied locally.

Atami’s characters (熱海) represent the symbols for “heat” and “ocean” – implying that Atami was named after the hot water of which it sits on. The alkaline water of Atami’s springs encourages skin healing and comes with a less powerful odour that sulfuric onsen water is known for.

This can be experienced right out of the station or at any of the natural footbaths scattered around the city including one with a view at Atami Castle. Perfect for wanderers looking for a break or those uninterested in bathing with others but still want to experience dipping in the same spring water as Japanese leaders of centuries past.

Just a few blocks from the beach, Mikan No Ki is a family-friendly hot spring resort with a mix of traditional and modern room options. While public bathing areas are an option, this hotel also provides guests with the choice of spending time in a private covered outdoor stone bath for individuals, couples, or families. You’ll also never have to wander far from the site with their scrumptious meal plans of local seafood delicacies and souvenir shop.

Photo: Richard Henry

Facilities like Oedo Onsen Monogatari Atami offer single-visit options for those just wanting to get in and get out without having to stay the night. It’s a prime spot for an after-swim rinse or a first-timer’s sea-view hot spring bath.

However you choose to do it, Atami’s cliffside is covered in hot spring spots all hoping to reel in those looking to relax on their sunny getaway.

Photo: Richard Henry

Is It Worth It?

Whether it’s a pit stop on your way to the rest of Izu or a weekend escape you’re considering, missing Atami would be a mistake for those in the region. Thanks to its position on the shinkansen line, Atami couldn’t be easier to visit. And if you’re getting around with the JR Tokyo Wide Pass, there’s no reason not to see it for yourself!

Got Your Beach Towel?

Take your dedication to the beach a step further with our Okinawa Island Vacation tour!

Let us take you the rest of the way to Japan’s natural jewels on our Mt. Fuji and Hakone in a Day tour!