Anthony Bourdain’s Japan: 5 Tokyo Must-Try Foods He Swore By - Japanspecialist
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Anthony Bourdain’s Japan: 5 Tokyo Must-Try Foods He Swore By
Anthony Bourdain’s Japan: 5 Tokyo Must-Try Foods He Swore By
“I never get bored, and I always learn new things in Manhattan. But there’s 15, 20 different Manhattans in Tokyo to me.” -Anthony Bourdain, Japan
Photo: Gábor Erdélyi
Anthony Bourdain is a name synonymous with travel. There isn’t a globetrotter on the planet who hasn’t set a pinpoint for a restaurant he stopped at or met a fellow traverser who hasn’t binged at least one of his numerous Parts Unknown television shows. For that matter, we’d be hard-pressed to find a writer or philosopher who hasn’t giggled at his prose or sat silently with his memory in mind.
A true trailblazer who leaves behind oceans of influence and cultural curiosity that circumnavigates the world, Anthony Bourdain is someone worth remembering, and his legacy is something worth following. Thankfully, he made more than one trip to Japan in his time as an on-screen icon, and his time in Tokyo was particularly well documented. So, let us serve you a list of some of our favourite and most accessible Bourdain stops to help you complete your ideal itinerary.
1. Lawson’s Grub
Without a doubt, the easiest place to start would be a spot accessible all-around Japan. In Tokyo, you can find one of these tasty stops every few meters. We’re referring to Lawson’s, of course – a chain of convenience stores that supply a great deal of the local food scene with quick pre- and post-work eats, of which Bourdain claimed had “an unholy grip on [him].” Convenience stores, or conbini, in Japan like Family Mart and 7-Eleven act as one-stops where residents can pay bills, ship packages, print concert tickets, and dig through assortments of bento lunch boxes or load up on chicken meatball skewers, so it’s no wonder Bourdain found himself in one of these little oases.
While Bourdain visited a Lawson’s in Okinawa in that particular episode of Parts Unknown, the spirit of every Lawson’s is the same. He claimed to be a particular fan of the, albeit suspicious, egg salad sandwiches, or “pillows of love” as he referred to them. Wash a few of those triangle-cut bad boys down with a canned Boss Coffee to accurately duplicate his recorded Lawson’s visit.
As history has allowed, you can still find a Bourdain Tweet (X post) of him raving about the beloved sandwich.
2. Fresh and Delectable Chicken at Toriki
A mind-blowing back-alley restaurant easy on both the wallet and heart, Toriki is a tiny family-run izakaya just outside Hatanodai Station that beckons visitors in with a nighttime lantern-lit glow and, upon stepping in, a genuine half-moon smile from the owner.
According to Bourdain, during an episode of A Cook’s Tour, Toriki serves “really, really good yakitori” – chicken skewers of varying meats or organs. Here, everything from skewers to fried chicken is served, and the impeccable taste of everything on the menu comes from the freshness of the prepared birds. Slaughtered each morning by the owner and dressed by hand, there’s a sense of appreciation and care for what’s being eaten, and it’s these years of dedication that have allowed places like Toriki to not only stay open but thrive.
While anything on the menu is a solid choice, Toriki’s tadaki, half raw, half cooked, chicken is a particular specialty (and was enjoyed in A Cook’s Tour). “For me, this is the best thing ever,” stuttered Bourdain between bites, and we couldn’t agree more. It’s one of our absolute favourite food stops in the city. That being said, we absolutely recommend making a reservation to this small-scale shop before intending to dine.
3. Sarashina Horii
Another notable and affordable stop in the Bourdain television franchise is Sarashina Horii – a sensational soba restaurant with centuries of history and a diverse array of noodle types that offers the diner a chance to slurp multiple serendipitous sets of hand-pulled noodles.
Bourdain visited this shop outside Azabu-Juban Station with Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto, owner of another recommended restaurant, in an episode of No Reservations. While the chefs enjoyed their soba in hot soup, tsumetai soba (cold dipping noodles) can also be enjoyed. Pair any of these alongside a variety of tempura and you’ll be pleasantly stuffed for the rest of the day.
Further lubricating your stomach with a cold beer while savouring your soba would probably make Bourdain proud.
4. Atelier Morimoto XEX
If Kentucky-fried fish was on your checklist for must-eats in Tokyo, you may be surprised to find that your ambitious palette was actually searching for something achievable.
Staying on the subject of Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto, he owns a fine-dining restaurant like no other in Roppongi. Atelier Morimoto XEX is a sushi and teppanyaki restaurant with a lounge and bar, and the interior is as immaculate as the food. The circle-seated grilling area is dimly lit – seemingly to loosen the elegant atmosphere and encourage diners to keep their eyes on the fire.
Wagyu beef and seafood are the specialties of the massive hot plate, and Tony's visit to this shop was highlighted by being privately served various grilled monkfish parts and organs along with vegetables in the No Reservations episode.
Warm your foot next to the lounge fireplace with a glass of champagne to really ingest the full flavours of what XEX is trying to achieve.
5. Ginza Sushiko Honten
Sushi stays on the menu when Bourdain tours Japan for good reason, and one of his most adored experiences came from an episode of Parts Unknown when he visited Ginza Sushiko Honten with chef Masa Takayama – a former colleague of the owner. “Sushi made in one of the oldest, most iconic, respected; best establishments in the world,” he would introduce.
They tasted a rainbow of sea critters including tuna, mackerel, octopus, prawn, and eel, as well as the restaurant’s personal tamagoyaki or egg loaf – this one with fish paste and shrimp eggs. The stories being shared between the chefs also made this scene an entrancing watch.
Bonus: Nightcaps at Bar Ishinohana and Bar Piano, Anthony Bourdain's Favourite Bars
If you’re still using the Bourdain formula even into the later hours, consider trying something a bit more top-shelf. Bar Ishinohara in Shibuya seemed to be a hit for Bourdain in a No Reservations episode. Trying rearranged versions of classic cocktails with his group, including the bar’s popular “Claudia,” he seemed to enjoy admiring the drink preparations.
For something a little freer in the Shibuya area, take a final stop like Bourdain’s final stop at Bar Piano – a tiny bar beside the train tracks. Its theme is something like a medieval horror party: red walls with swords, armour, and glowing chandeliers, but the patrons couldn’t be kinder.
Thankfully, there are multiple levels to this little place. If this is the last stop of your own episode of Japan exploration, we encourage you to reflect and marvel at your time here just as Bourdain did.
Mapping Tony´s Tokyo Must-Tastes
In case you want to easily go in all the above places we pinpointed them for you.
- Toriki: show location
- Sarashina Horii: show location
- Atelier Morimoto XEX: show location
- Ginza Sushi Ko Honten: show location
- Bar Ishinohana: show location
- Bar Piano: show location
Anthony Bourdain Time in Japan, More than Food
Anthony Bourdain's curiosity often led him to explore the fringes of cultural norms. In Tokyo, he delved into the world of a unique genre of manga and anime. He dined with Toshio Maeda, the acclaimed manga artist credited with pioneering this genre through his 1986 work, Urotsukidōji. Their conversation shed light on the creative ways artists navigated Japan's censorship laws by depicting tentacles instead of human anatomy.
During his Tokyo journey, Bourdain also encountered the works of Kinoko Hajime, a renowned Japanese rope artist whose intricate techniques blend artistry with tradition. While some might view such art as unconventional, Bourdain appreciated the deep cultural roots embedded in these forms of expression.
Beyond Tokyo’s neon-lit streets, Bourdain also reflected on his travels through the country, embracing both its ancient traditions and modern eccentricities. While his experiences were widely celebrated, some of his candid takes on culture and cuisine were occasionally blocked in certain regions, highlighting the complexity of global media reception.
Ready to Enjoy the Ride in Japan?
Tokyo is a culinary mecca: from chain restaurants, a proper Koreatown to a bar owned by monks, you know why Anthony Bourdain was fascinated by its infinite options.
If you’re hoping to taste some other famous Bourdain stops like okonomiyaki at Mahakala or have a taste of his life with the view from New York Bar and Grill, let us take you out on a tailor-made tour!
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