Spiritual Workout: A Hike to Yamadera

Better known as Yamadera, the Risshaku-Ji temple awaits you after 1,000 steps carved in stone and lost inside a deep cedar trees forest. Scattered around the mountain, the many facets of this temple attached to the Tendai branch of Buddhism offer many rewards for anyone courageous enough to climb up the road to the “mountain temple”.

Yamagata Prefecture

Yamagata Prefecture is located between Niigata and Miyagi Prefectures – which capital city is Sendai. On paper, this prefecture has it all: lush nature, incredible cultural and historical heritage, delicious food, and tasty sake – Japanese rice wine. We have to say this is not only picture-perfect, but it is also real: Yamagata is an incredible place to visit. There are many reasons to pick Yamagata as a travel location, including Mount Zao and its famous ski slopes, fox village, or even “snow monsters” formed by wind and snow on cedar trees on top of this mountain.

You might have read about Ginzan Onsen here on Japanspecialist, a dreamy destination definitely on our favourites list; or Zao Onsen, historically reputed for its hot springs. On a more general level, Yamagata is famous for its historical heritage as it was the territory of the Ainu people before they were pushed to the north of the country. Naturally, it created a long and complex timeline all explained in several museums or sightseeing locations that you can visit inside the prefecture.

On this list of reasons to come explore Yamagata Prefecture, you will also find the spiritual world through Dewa Sanzan and Yamadera. While Dewa Sanzan is a Shinto pilgrimage site (formed by Haguro, Gassan, and Yudono mountains), Yamadera is a Buddhist pilgrimage site located just next to the capital city of Yamagata Prefecture, Yamagata City. Good news, they’re both included in our Tokyo and Tohoku tours!

Yamadera

The temple offers a panorama view on top of a cliff, with many Important Cultural Properties distributed on the few sites that compose the complex of Risshaku-Ji. The best view comes, of course, from the top of the temple – reputed splendid in every season of the year – but you will enjoy a clear view of the valley and the city from almost everywhere inside the upper part of the complex. What’s beautiful and so interesting about Yamadera is how scattered are the several buildings of the temple, you will have to climb more stairs, walk or go down a few steps if you want to visit every bit of it.

If you look up the place online, you will find almost exclusively the same picture of the complex, which is the impressive Godaido Hall observation deck placed on top of a cliff. This is where you can take in the scenic view of the valley below you – but there is so much more to explore and see, don’t worry! This 1,200-Year-Old structure is a sight to see.

From the Bottom…

Your journey will start at the bottom of the mountain, located 5 min from the Yamadera City train station. As in any Japanese sightseeing location, you will find many restaurants and souvenir shops on your way there. Before climbing up, there are some interesting things to see in the first part of the temple: a flame that has been burning for 1,000 years according to the legend (and coming from China!), a treasure hall, and a statue dedicated to Basho – a famous poet who left a mark everywhere in Japan. Not everyone chooses to climb up to the Godaido and the rest of the complex, some visitors simply come and pray at the Hie Shrine at the foot of the mountain – and some pray there before starting the ascension.

Now that you gathered your forces, let’s climb up! Before that, don’t forget to check if you have enough water and some snacks with you, just in case. The official Yamadera Tourism Association does recommend wearing some hiking gear without stating it is essential for the trip though.

…to the Top of Yamadera!

A big part of the hike is actually inside the forest and will take you approximately 30 minutes. Even though the trail can be steep and might make you thirsty, it is delightful and almost spiritual in itself. There is no warning considering the effort you will have to put in but don’t hesitate to make a few stops along the way and observe the spiritual checkpoints around you. A few statues and some lanterns will guide and accompany you along the way until you reach the actual entrance of the upper part of the temple, where you will have to pay a small fee to enter (¥300 as we write this article).

Your arrival, coming out of the forest, will give you an incredible view while you catch your breath. There, you can wander all you want on the mountainside, visit the halls and pray to the local divinities. Don’t miss the Dainichi Nyorai statue inside the pagoda – the smallest in Japan!–, the impressive wood gate Niomon and the Kaisando founder’s hall.

Fun fact: the sound of cicadas that you can hear in and around Yamadera has been registered as one of the 100 Soundscapes of Japan by the Ministry of Environment. Something to ponder during your hike to Yamadera!