Follow the Way of the Samurai in Aizuwakamatsu

Aizuwakamatsu, at the Heart of Fukushima Prefecture

Despite its amazing natural treasures and historical architecture, Aizuwakamatsu is often neglected when it comes to drafting your holiday itinerary in Japan. However, the city is considered a perfect gateway to Tohoku, or even Fukushima prefecture, thanks to its convenient location but, indeed, it is not directly accessible by Shinkansen. It only takes 3 hours by train from Tokyo to reach Aizuwakamatsu, though, and the city deserves your attention.

During the Edo period (1603 – 1868), Aizuwakamatsu was the head city of the Aizu clan, a clan deeply involved in the Japanese Revolution that witnessed the end of the Japanese feudal period before the Meiji Restoration came into place. Nowadays, it is well-known for its local sake, traditional lacquer crafts, and its “real people, real Japan” kind of feeling granted by the relative smallness of the city.

Tsuruga Castle

Erected in 1384, the castle of Aizuwakamatsu was a beacon of hope for samurai warriors during the Japanese Revolution. Like many other castles in Japan, it was renovated after being destroyed and transformed into a concrete structure and a brand-new white dungeon with red tiles in 1965. Visiting its five stairs, you can find a museum retracing its 1,000 years long history and samurai culture, organized by themes.

Of course, you can also enjoy a clear and scenic view of the city at the top of the dungeon and there is a delightful park at the bottom, where you can stroll while taking a look at how the castle organized its defence.

Nisshinkan Samurai School

Another impressive sight in Aizuwakamatsu is its samurai school, whose original location was just next to Tsuruga Castle. Created in 1803, the school was dedicated to training the new generation of samurais for the Aizu clan and Japan – as they were reputed to be the best ones! – but it was destroyed after the Japanese Revolution. The school you can visit today is a replica, located in the north of Aizuwakamatsu but it’s still a nice way to take a glimpse into the life of feudal Japanese people!

Samurais used to be trained in many different skills, that you can discover in the Nisshinkan school. The complex is huge, and you will witness many facets of a samurai in the training life – and try some too, such as archery! Take your time to wander in the different buildings, and maybe learn a samurai skill on the way.

Mount Iimori

During the Japanese Revolution, a group of samurai teenagers doomed themselves to a terrible fate by practising the ritual suicide called seppuku. After taking refuge in Mount Iimori, gathered at the top of the mountain to keep an eye on the battle that was destroying Aizuwakamatsu, they mistakenly thought that the castle was falling and decided to go with honour by killing themselves… Little did they know that the castle was still standing, only grazed by these flames.

The honour that such young people showed, along with their devotion to their city, made them heroes – still celebrated nowadays in various pop culture media – and Mount Iimori became a pilgrimage site. Bonus point: there is a very unique and rare religious building on this mountain. Don’t forget to check the Sazaedo temple, and look at its double-helix staircase.

Today, we focused on the samurai heritage of Aizuwakamatsu but there is so much more to explore in the city and its surroundings! If you’re a Japanese sake lover, the “brewery street” will be your way to go, pottery is also big in the city and you won’t be surprised to read that such an old city has some incredible ryokan to offer too – with some geisha shows as well.

Don’t hesitate to reach us if you’re interested in a tailored trip to the samurai city Aizuwakamatsu, or explore our Tohoku destinations to dream even more of your trip to Northern Japan.