Exploring Shimane Prefecture: Top Spots Around Lake Shinji

With local JR transit allowing for near total circumnavigation of the lake, tourists can take in one of the best secrets of the country – a train trail through towns of old-world castles, historic hot springs, and iconic shrines of the highest cultural significance. Let’s talk about how to make the most of this grand escape.

The Castle Capital: Matsue

Matsue is a city of high national value with a low ceiling skyline. With a population of a little over 200,000, the area to resident's ratio labels Matsue as a pocket-sized prefectural capital. With nothing that can be considered a skyscraper in sight, the capital leads tourists on a quest for nature, history, and local culture. It’s just outside of the Matsue city centre that tourists can visit the Shimane Art Museum. Located on the east edge of Lake Shinji, the museum is home to one of the 100 best sunset spots of Japan – encouraging locals and tourists alike to dart to the seawalls at sundown to witness a glowing red lake absorb our local star.

Well before the day closes, but sometime after gorging on the local lake delicacy of shijimi clams, head to the city’s jewel – a remnant of times long past that was fought from and for. Matsue Castle, one of the remaining original twelve left in Japan, was a fortress under threat before and after the Meiji restoration. However, locals fought hinge and nail at the turn of the era to protect the main tower from the national ordinance that forced most castles to be deconstructed. Thus, Matsue Castle is sentimental to people in the capital and a wonder to behold, inside and out, for anyone wishing to experience it.

Hot Spring River Village: Tamatsukuri

Photo by: Richard Henry

Ah, the serene scene of a hot spring. Indoor, outdoor, onsen water in Japan is never without a natural partner in crime. In Tamatsukuri, that companion is the Tamayu River – a rocky waterway with pockets of gurgling onsen footbath pools. The banks of the river are regularly occupied by hotel visitants dressed in bath robes wandering the streets after a revitalizing dip in one of the riverside hot spring hotel’s baths. Choose from one of many, or, for a small fee, dip in a famous bath without staying overnight.

Just south of the lake, Tamatsukuri Onsen is an easy ten-minute train ride (or a five-minute limited express ride) from Matsue Station. While the river walk in from Tamatsukuri Station can be relaxing, a shuttle bus will quickly take you to the centre of the action… or lack thereof. While accessible through public transit, this onsen town feels as remote as it historically was. Centuries old, people have been visiting Tamatsukuri and singing praises of the rich water quality for a long time.

The onsen area is littered with stone carving installations of the locally plentiful green agate stones. Cut into shapes of what could be described as half a yin-yang, it’s the symbol of the town. Cross foot bridges lined with them, and take in the environment. Immerse yourself in the sulfuric wealth of the flowing river, or stop by one of the hotels like Matsunoyu. For just ¥1200 yen (¥600 for children), visitors not staying at the hotel can relax in the indoor or outdoor grand baths – as charming as they are beneficial to the skin.

Seemingly frozen in time, Tamatsukuri offers a sense of real Japan with the relaxing atmosphere of a hot spring town easily accessible from the capital.

The Shrine of All Shrines: Izumo

This is the one. Any notion of “seen one, seen them all” doesn’t apply here. Izumo’s shrine, commonly referred to as Izumo Grand Shrine, represents more than just a single deity. Izumo-taisha is the meeting grounds for the all the millions of deities of the country. In this way, the Grand Shrine is the shrine of all shrines.

Historically the oldest shrine, Izumo-taisha houses the deity of the Shinto religion that is believed to have originally created Japan. Annually, in autumn, a festival is held to celebrate the magnificent assembly of Japan’s divine beings all coming together at the site of the main kami (god).

The grounds encourage those of the faith and inclined tourists to consider their partners in prayer, as the shrine deity, Okuninushi, also blesses relationships. As such, the typical two claps required at saisen boxes (the boxes that coins are thrown into) becomes four – two for yourself and two for your lover (or hopeful lover).

Photo by: Richard Henry

The main hall of the shrine is massive – one of the largest in Japan, in fact. The ribbon of the gift it is, its shimenawa (large straw rope found at many shrines) is as thick as it is intricate. The entire scope of the complex keeps visitors captivated. It’s a gorgeous representation of the religion and a magnificent final stop on the tour of Shinji’s treasures. The grounds are a wonder of the country and make for an equally unique and unforgettable visit in Japan.

Photo by: Richard henry

Catching a glimpse at that stunning sunset is something that has to be earned. Getting to the area requires some distance… from anywhere. Thankfully, a flight to Izumo Airport, located on the lakes west side, is always an option. The limited express JR from Okayama City is also very doable. A bus ride from Hiroshima City is a mode commonly taken with frequent campaign discounts for tourists.

Want to experience more of the San’in region? Consider booking a Kyoto and San’in Coast Self-Drive Tour!