Japan’s Art Island: How to Make the Most of Naoshima

In the Seto Inland Sea

In the Seto Inland Sea, there are several different Japanese islands with their own unique characteristics. One of those islands, about halfway between Osaka and Hiroshima, is Naoshima Island. The most famous one of the famous art islands, Naoshima is known for its art, and not just because of one or two sculptures, but a huge selection of museums, contemporary art as well as classic art, and creative pieces and art sites across the island.  

Here, we’ll take a look at some of the highlights of Naoshima Island and how best to spend your time there.  

When to Visit Naoshima and How to Get There

To decide when to visit Naoshima Island, it’s important to note that June to September is typically 20°C and above (and can reach 30°C or higher), whereas December to March is often below 10°C. Spring and autumn tend to stay in the teens, so are generally the most pleasant times to visit the island and its art museums. If you’re visiting in winter or summer, remember to bring ample layers or sunscreen! 

The Iconic Yellow Pumpkin

When it comes to Naoshima Island, the first thing that comes to mind for many is Yayoi Kusama’s sculpture, Yellow Pumpkin. Kusama has created a number of different pumpkin art pieces that are dotted around Japan. In fact, there is even a second, Red Pumpkin on Naoshima, right by the ferry terminal.  

But the Yellow Pumpkin, standing out on the western shore of the island, is the most well-known of Naoshima's art installations. It was created for an art exhibition in 1994, and stands 2 meters high and 2.5 meters wide. It was originally only intended for temporary exhibition, but it worked with Naoshima Island’s concept of “Symbiosis of Nature, Architecture and Art”, so it was kept on permanently. 

You can find the iconic pumpkin sculpture towards the southern end of Naoshima, near the Benesse House Museum.  

Benesse House Museum and Benesse Art Site

The Benesse House Museum and Benesse Art Site was the very first structure to be built on Naoshima in 1992 in its journey to becoming an art island. It was designed to double as both a hotel and museum, and in 1994 held the outdoor “Out of Bounds” exhibition where Yayoi Kusama’s Yellow Pumpkin was first shown. 

Overlooking the Seto Inland Sea, the museum was designed by celebrated Japanese architect Tadao Ando, and features contemporary artworks by the likes of Hiroshi Sugimoto, Gerhard Richter, and David Hockney, to name a few. The hotel guest rooms feature unique works of art themselves, with those in the Oval boasting beautiful balcony views out onto the sea. 

Lee Ufan Museum

Just a few minutes’ walk from the Benesse House Museum is the Lee Ufan Museum, which opened in 2010.  

This museum was created as a collaboration between architect Tadao Ando and contemporary painter and sculptor Lee Ufan. Both artists are known for their minimalism and often use materials like concrete and stone, so their styles work together to create an impression of both stillness and dynamism at the same time.  

The building was created to be semi-underground to not interfere with the skyline and view of the Seto Inland Sea, and inside you’ll find paintings and sculptures by Lee Ufan spanning from the 1970s to present day. This is a relatively small museum that only requires around 30 minutes to visit slowly, but it is a good place to unwind and allow yourself some quiet contemplation.  

Chichu Art Museum

Not far from the Lee Ufan Museum and Benesse House Museum is the architectural marvel of Chichu Art Museum.  

Also designed by Tadao Ando, the museum opened in 2004 with the idea of “Rethinking the Relationship Between Nature and People”. This museum was also built mostly underground to avoid interrupting the natural scenery. Despite that, it lets in a lot of natural light, which interacts with the artworks in different ways throughout the day and even through the seasons. 

The museum features just a few rooms, with each including artworks by one artist, and designed specifically for hosting the art pieces which are placed there – thus, the museum itself turns into a piece of art. From Claude Monet, Walter De Maria, and James Turrell, and requires around 1–1.5 hours to complete. One simply cannot leave Naoshima without having seen and felt the Monet painting Water Lilies, or the light installation Open Sky by James Turrell at the Chichu Art Museum. 

I Love Yu (Naoshima Bath)

If you want to feel even closer to the artwork, an interesting installation near the Naoshima ferry terminal is I Love Yu (I♥︎湯). This is a public bathhouse which in itself is an art exhibit by Shinro Ohtake. And no, “Yu” is not a typo! “Yu” in Japanese means hot water, and is associated with public baths!  

There are elements of Ohtake’s work both inside and outside the bathhouse, with specially designed mosaics, wall murals, and bathtubs in his “scrapbook” style. It was created with the idea of promoting cultural exchanges between international visitors and Japanese local residents, and is open from 1pm–9pm daily, but closed on Mondays. 

Other Art Island Highlights

Although Naoshima Island is relatively small, it is truly packed with interesting contemporary art installations and exhibits to explore. Some of the other places to visit on the island include the Art House Project. In the Art House Project, artists occupy different empty houses in the village, and turn the spaces into contemporary art.

Moreover, you can find the Ando Museum and the Hiroshi Sugimoto Gallery and Go’o Shrine, but you will also find a number of other art pieces here and there. The newest addition to Naoshima's contemporary art is the Benesse House Museum Valley Gallery: opened in 2022, this space hosts Yayoi Kusama's Narcissus Garden, an art installation featuring a sea of shiny, silver balls. This is why we recommend staying a night or two, as it is difficult to get everything done in one day!

If that’s not enough for you, you can also visit the two neighbouring art islands of Teshima and Inujima, which each take under an hour to reach by ferry from Naoshima.

Another one of the art islands, Teshima is home to the Teshima Art Museum: an architectural marvel by Ryue Nishizawa. The Teshima Art Museum is a testament to concrete defying gravity, and provides a comprehensive audiovisual experience.

Explore Eastern Japan Further from Naoshima

There are a few different hotel options when staying on Naoshima Island, such as the four Benesse House accommodations. But once you have made it to Naoshima, it’s a good excuse to explore further.

If you explore further south of Naoshima on the coast in the Setouchi region, you will find some hidden like the seaside and mountain town of Onomichi. At Onomichi, you can also rent a bike and cross over little islands all the way to Shikoku on the Seto Inland Sea's famous bicycle route, the Shimanami Kaido. Continue your eastern adventures with the town’s beautiful scenery and friendly cats, and allow yourself to unwind in these calmer areas.